This post is part of a series that discusses corrections for gaping armholes in different style patterns. Armholes! Why are they the hardest to fit?! Well, we all have different shapes!

Today’s correction focuses on gaping armholes, meaning they don’t sit close to the body.

This correction is also an alternative to a full bust adjustment, meaning you could take the bust size of your pattern and reduce the armhole instead. However, bear in mind that sometimes you’ll need to also adjust the bust to complement this correction.

How to Fix Gaping Armholes with Princess Seams

1. Pin the amount that’s gaping in the direction of the apex.
2. Measure the amount and locations you’ve pinned. Then mark the pattern at that location and amount.
3. Notice when you pin the sample—did the armhole become too high in the feel of your garment?
4. Close the pattern by folding that amount shut and taping the pattern piece.
5. Join the side panel to the adjoining pattern piece and smooth out the armhole.
6. If the armhole felt too high after pinning, you can lower the armhole the amount you feel is necessary.

This correction can also be used in the back armhole, but the front armhole most commonly shows this issue.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.