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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Woven Raglan Sleeve with Shoulder Darts – Option 2

Raglan sleeve gaping is such a common fitting issue! Here are two more options just for you 😊. This correction is specific to woven shirts with shoulder darts, but it also works for knits with no darts.

It’s very common with raglan sleeves to have some gaping in the armholes because we’re asking the fabric to wrap all the way around the shoulder tip with very little pattern shaping.

Steps to Correct Armhole Gaping – Option 2

  1. Cut the Sample: Cut your sample vertically or horizontally (or do one sleeve each way to see which side looks better).
  2. Tape and Pin: Whichever option you go with, tape and pin it open at the shoulder tip, measuring the amount you open.
  3. Mark the Pattern: Mark the pattern for either option as shown (either vertically or horizontally).
  4. Cut and Open the Pattern: Cut the pattern open as shown and allow the pieces to open up the amount you’ve taped/pinned your garment open.
  5. Deepen the Dart: The dart automatically becomes deeper. Sometimes, you might want to lengthen the tip of the dart so it doesn’t become too pointy.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

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  • Identify the Fitting Issue.
  • Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.
  • Correct the Sewing Pattern.
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MEET GINA

It's a feeling of happiness to create and sew. Sewing allows the imagination to flourish which brings fulfillment and gives a sense of accomplishment. For so many people, sewing is that happy place. It s getting into that creative flow where time doesn't exist and problems seem to disappear. The result is amazing. When you try that item on after you 've finished it, there is nothing better than feeling 100% YOU. You 've designed it with your fabric combinations and it fits you.