Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. If you have a larger bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA).

You’ll know if you need this because the bust is tight or pulling. There may be gaping at the neckline or armhole, and often draglines appear from multiple locations pointing toward the Apex area.

Steps for Full Bust Adjustment with French Darts

1. If you have a tight bust area and diagonal draglines on the side panel, cut open your sample as shown, stopping just before the armhole.
2. Open the amount needed, tape and pin, and measure it.
3. Come back to the pattern and slash it open as shown, stopping just before the armhole, and on the center of the French dart line, stopping just before the Apex.
4. Allow the Apex to open the amount you measured in your sample.
5. Allow the side panel to drop down until it reaches a parallel line on the vertical cut line.
6. This is the amount to add to your pattern piece. Your dart becomes deeper.
7. Your dart position may need to change to where the Apex is. Since we opened it up, this has lowered the dart. Many times, you don’t need to change the dart position.
8. If you want to keep the original waist size, reduce the waist at the side seam, which will angle the side seam more. Double-check your back body panel to make sure the side seams match.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.