Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. If you have a larger bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA).

You’ll know if you need this because the bust is tight or pulling. There may be gaping at the neckline or armhole. Often, draglines appear from multiple locations pointing toward the Apex area.

Steps for Full Bust Adjustment (No Darts or Princess Seams)

1. If you have a tight bust area and diagonal draglines on the side panel, cut open your sample as shown, stopping just before you reach the armhole.
2. Open the amount needed, tape and pin, and measure it.
3. Come back to the pattern and mark that amount at the side seam armhole area.
4. Draw around the pattern starting at the LPS (Low Point Shoulder), going along the neckline, center front (CF), and waistline.
5. Pivot from the LPS until you reach the side seam mark.
6. Draw in the armhole.
7. Then pivot from that new armhole position down to the waistline.
8. Draw in the side seam.

The nice thing about this adjustment is that it only increases the bust. The waist and the armhole stay as they are and don’t increase. However, you do need to add a little to the back side seam length to match the new front side seam length.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.