This back armhole rule is so important!

This correction shows what to do when the across-back area is too tight or small, but you’re happy with the shoulder position.

If you’ve ever had this issue, follow these steps to correct it:

Steps to Correct Across-Back Tightness – Option 1

1. Check the Back Armhole Rule: First, check to make sure the back armhole rule is followed.
2. Draw Guide Lines: Draw a parallel line from the center front (CF) to the smallest area of the across-back. Draw a perpendicular line from the armhole position.
3. Measure the 45° Angle: Mark a 45-degree angle from the crossing point and measure the length of that line. You should be at a minimum of 1”. If it’s not, correct that first! A measurement of 1” or higher is acceptable.
4. Cut the Sample: If it’s still tight, cut your sample along the armhole across the back on both left and right armholes.
5. Tape and Pin: Tape and pin the amount that was missing.
6. Check Comfort: Move around to make sure it’s comfortable. When you’re happy, measure the amount you’ve taped open.
7. Adjust the Pattern: On your pattern, add to the armhole the amount you’ve taped open in the across-back area. You may choose to add to the sleeve too, depending on the amount you need to add.
8. Adjust the Sleeve: This reduces the armhole measurement slightly, so you may need to slash and close the sleeve in the same area to fit the new armhole.

Always check the rule first! Over time, you’ll notice your go-to measurement, and you can start from that for your body. Any number 1” or higher is your target.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.