This is the biggest battle with designers! So many designers I’ve worked with always question why we need to have a little extra fabric in the “across-back” area. The reason: the garment needs to be comfortable to move in!

This correction shows what to do when the across-back area is too big, but you’re happy with the shoulder position.

Step-by-Step Correction for Across-Back Width

1. Pin your sample on the armhole along the across-back area on both the left and right armholes.
2. Move around to make sure it’s still comfortable. If it’s not, reduce the amount pinned until it fits comfortably. When satisfied, measure the amount you’ve pinned.
3. On your pattern, reduce the armhole to the amount you’ve pinned in the across-back area.
4. This adjustment increases the armhole measurement slightly. You may need to slash and open the sleeve in the same area to fit the new armhole. If the back sleeve is too big, pin out the amount to remove and reduce the sleeve accordingly. You may also need to raise the armhole slightly to make it fit perfectly.

Always check the rule after making adjustments! Over time, you’ll notice your go-to measurement for your body. Any number 1” or higher is a good target, especially for production garments.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.