Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust adjustment (SBA). This example focuses on side darts only.

Steps for SBA with Side Darts

1. If you have excess in the bust area, pin your sample as shown and measure the amount you’ve pinned.
2. Come back to the pattern and slash it open as shown, stopping just before the armhole. On the side dart line, stop just before the Apex.
3. Allow the Apex to overlap the amount you measured in your sample (closing out that amount).
4. Allow the side panel to raise up until it reaches a parallel line on the vertical cut line.
5. Your dart becomes less deep and, in some cases, may disappear depending on the amount you’ve overlapped.
6. Your dart position may need to change to where the Apex is. Since we closed it up, this has raised our dart. Many times, you don’t need to change the dart position.

Note: This adjustment can decrease the waist. If you don’t want the waist/hem to become smaller, you can add on the side seams.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.