This pattern correction is necessary when we have excess fabric at the front rise area, especially the inseam. Note that this issue also occurs if the front rise is too slanted. To fix this, we’re going to pin the excess out.

We’ve already discussed the slanted front rise in ‘Eliminating Front Whiskers Option 1’ . If you’ve already checked out that video, move forward to this correction and pin the sample.

You’re going to measure the amount you pinned. You might need to pin in the upper area and also in the curve of the rise, meaning that your excess could be either in the inseam area or in the front rise curve, or both.

Pattern Correction Based on Pinning

• If you pinned only in the inseam area, your correction is going to be in the thigh width. You’re going to take off the amount you’ve pinned. If you only pin on the front, then take it off just the front. If you pin both the back and the front, take it off both.
• Maybe you had to pin in the curvature of the rise. If you did, then you’re going to have to take in the amount you pinned there, measure that exact same amount, and then measure the position. You’re going to keep the crotch point where it’s out. Then, you’re going to shift the curvature inwards; the amount pinned is the amount you’re going to shift in. This correction would only be on the front panel because you’ve only really pinned it on the front here.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.