This is the sixth and last post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. This step focuses on addressing back neck gaping issues. If you still have back neck gaping after completing the previous post, continue with this method.

Here, you will either deepen an existing dart on your pattern or add a dart that doesn’t exist. You can choose the dart location:

1. At the neckline
2. At the shoulder seam

Step-by-Step Correction:

1. Pin the excess of the back neck width at your desired dart location.
2. If pinning at the shoulder seam, it’s often easier to open up the shoulder seam.
3. Measure the amount pinned and note where the garment sits against the shoulder blades—this becomes your dart length.
4. Return to your pattern and mark the dart location for the width you pinned and the dart length.
5. Optionally, turn the dart into a yoke or incorporate it into a design line to eliminate the dart visually.

Why Use This Dart?

This dart is often necessary due to the curvature of the spine. It allows for a closer fit in the neck and shoulder area, improving comfort and eliminating excess fabric.

Remember: If your garment has a princess seam, apply the same corrections used for the front neck panel. Use the corrections for princess seams from the armhole and princess seams from the shoulder as needed.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.