This is a design option for increasing movement in the across-back area if it’s too tight. It’s a great secondary option for improving comfort and lift in the back.

You can find the first option here (link to Option 1).

The concept is adding a back yoke with a pleat coming from the yoke. The pleat will give more fabric to allow for better movement and lift. It also adds a design detail while making the garment more comfortable.

Steps to Add a Back Yoke with Pleat – Option 2

1. Decide the Yoke Position: Decide the yoke position. The higher the yoke seam, the better the movement.
2. Mark Pleat Location: Mark the location where you want the pleats from the yoke seam to the hem.
3. Cut (Slash): Cut (slash) along that line.
4. Open (Spread) the Pleat: Open (spread) the amount you want the pleat to become. It’s usually around 1/2” depth, which is 1” total.
5. Draw New Yoke Seam: Draw in the new yoke seam and mark the notches for the pleat.

This correction allows better movement, adds extra fabric for lift, and gives a stylish design element while improving garment comfort.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.